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Airbrush : Iwata HP-BH, Custom Micron B
Spray Guns: Iwata LPH400 and Iwata LPH300
Paint Media: PPG, X-Otic and Matrix Systems
Surface Media: Everything I can get paint to stick to.
Masking : Metalflake Spray Mask, Artool Strtch Mask, R-Tape and 3M Masking Tapes
Projector: Artograph
Lighting : Natural and Florescent. Artool Pro Light Box, Spray-Line and Spray King Paint Booths

Sand cars take more abuse than anything else that is customized. It is very crucial that the sheet metal is sanded so the primer will get a good bite. Otherwise the paint might let go and come off the panels. I recommend using 80 grit sandpaper to guarantee the primer adheres.

Wipe down the panels with a metal conditioner to remove any oils. Spray 3 coats of a 2 part epoxy primer. I use PPG's DP48-LF. I like this primer instead of etching primers. Its like an insurance policy that my paint won't come off. Spray a guide coat. Sand the primer using a waffle pad with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Keep water running over the paper so it won't clog. This step is a must because the primer has a 24 hour window without sanding before it's too hard and paint won't adhere. It also gives you a flat surface to do the graphics on.

Sketch out the illustration using either chalk or a soft #2 pencil. Both of these remove easily with a wax and grease remover (PPG DX330). To mask up for my illustrations I use a product called transfer tape. Its a very low tack material that is used for transferring vinyl decals and won't pull up the paint. It also cuts very easy with a razor blade and gives the work a clean edge.

Layout the background design using 1/8" blue fine line. This is where you need to determine the levels of graphics. What is going over or under.

To build the spider web background I worked in reverse. Using a Sata Mini-Jet, I sprayed a light gray base. This will be the color of the web. Next, I used 3M blue fine-line tape to layout the web design. This will block the background color when sprayed.

Here I sprayed the entire background with House of Kolor "Sunrise Pearl". After picking my light source, I faded in a light coat of HOK "Tangelo Orange Pearl". To achieve depth, I mixed up a darker orange and airbrushed a drop shadow to the web.

You don't want a flat illustration. You want to create layers to give a 3 dimensional look. I added a beveled edge to what will become the second level of graphics. Then with the airbrush and an over reduced black I added drop shadows.

Apply transfer tape over the entire project. Use a new razor blade and cut a trap to the illustration. A trap is a printing term meaning overlapping into the illustration (approx. 2mm). Pull off the transfer tape to expose the are to be painted.

Remove the transfer tape and wipe down the entire surface with wax and grease remover. You want to do this several times through out the job. This removes light over spray and contaminants.

Its always a good idea to protect the artwork from any damage while you continue the project. Apply a couple of coats of inter-coat clear. I like using PPG's DBC 500. You can tape over it in a matter of minutes.

After spraying the red graphic (which ties into the chassis and becomes layer #4), add drop shadows to the illustration.

To add detail to the illustration (i.e. webbing to spiderman's outfit) I use House of Kolor striping urethanes and a 00 liner brush. Add a drop of hardner (The same you will be using with the clear coat).

Here I put the panels back onto the car to add the remaining graphics. Then back off the car they go to add more transfer tape. This seems like a lot of taping but I used 14" tape and only took a matter of minutes to do.

Using an Iwata LPH-300, I sprayed the first graphic using HOK "Limetime Green" and added a gold pearl fade at the tips. I separated the two graphics with masking paper.

I let the first graphic dry for a few minutes then flipped the masking paper over top cover it and expose graphic number 2. First I sprayed HOK "Passion Pearl" and added a Majik Blue Pearl fade.

For the granite effect on the overall background, I sprayed a HOK "Galaxy Gray" base. To get the speckled effect I took white and cut the air pressure down at the gun to spit dots. I did the same with black and then purple. Next I airbrushed cracks in the granite. Do this by taking the nozzle cap off the airbrush and paint black cracks. Add white highlights to the cracks. Next add drop shadows to the all the graphics. Its important to visualize you chosen light source so all the drop shadows are consistent.

Time for the first clear coat. First I cleaned the panels with wax and grease remover. Then went over them again with a tack cloth. This will remove any lint. With my trusty Iwata LPH-400 I then applied 4 good coats of Matrix MS-42 clear.

Once the clear is dry I wet sanded with a block and 3M 400 grit wet/dry paper. This is done to level the graphics. Then onto my not-so-favorite part of the job. Using all HOK Striping urethanes, a liner brush, a pack of cigs and a gallon of Pepsi I tie the job together with some colorful strips.

Back into the booth for clear coat #2. Instead of repeating myself and taking up valuable magazine space, just refer to Step # 17.

Here's where it gets tricky. The following steps for color sanding and buffing are what makes or breaks the job. There are as many combinations do doing this as there are ways. I begin with a Waterbug Sander and 3M 1500 grit paper to take out the orange peel.

Next I use a sanding block with 3M 1500 grit and sand in a X pattern to make sure the clear is level and not to create waves. Repeat Steps #20 and 21 with 3M 2000 grit sandpaper.

For the final sanding I use a Mirka Bulldog with 2000 grit Abralon pads and then a 4000 grit pad. At this point it should almost look polished.

I literally work the clear with a wool pad and 3M Perfect-It II compound removing all the sanding scratches. I never take the buffer over 1400 rpms throughout the process.

To remove any swirl marks created from the wool pad I make another pass using a 3M Foam cutting pad. Tedious isn't it!

Wash the panels with soap and water to remove any compound. Next I use a 3M foam polishing pad with 3M Perfect-It II Foam Polish. This gives a high gloss glassy finish.

Wash the panels again with soap and water. To finish any project I always hand wax it with Meguires Quick Wax. As long as the job is taken care of it will look this good for years.

Steven Craig is the owner and head painter of SKC CUSTOMZ in Lake Havasu City, AZ. In the past Steven has won the House of Kolor Prestigeous Painter Award and was a 1st Place winner of Dupont's Hot Hues Awards. He most recently was awarded the Matrix System's FX Grand Prize Award. Steve paints a wide range
of jobs from guitars to large off shore boats. Visit his web site at